Sunday, March 8, 2009

South Africa Part 1

Johannesburg
12-14 February

After a never-ending flight of 14 hours we arrived at the other side of the globe; South-Africa. This is to become Marcel's first encounter with Africa. We arrived at Johannesburg (Joburg for insiders) and had arranged for pick-up by a chauffeur to bring us to our first B&B, Tladi Lodge in Sandtown. B&B's in South Africa are like luxury hotels, most with your own private entrances and patios. They are often cheaper than a hotel of the same standard and excellent value for money. After a quick shower we went out for dinner in Sandton, at the Nelson Mandela Square (many streets and buildings have been (re)named after him) and we found a delicious African restaurant where we enjoyed a buffet with lots of local African dishes.

The next day we were off to learn about South-African history. We first went on a tour through the famous township Soweto, followed by a visit to the Apartheidsmuseum and a J'burg city tour. Lisette did the same tour in Soweto 10 years ago and things had changed significantly. For the better for the inhabitants, but it has lost its purity due to the busloads of tourists that arrive every day. The squatter camps were still there but all the rest was full of new houses, businessess, and even B&B and hotels, something unthinkable 10 years ago. Living conditions are a lot better and there is a lot less violence and crime. We did have a short walk through the “poorer” areas where we visited a children's daycare house. They were so happy to see us and we fell in love with those cute faces. Lisette immediately wanted to adopt them all!




We then went to the Apartheidsmuseum. There we got to experience the whole history of Apartheid through film and photos, some of which were pretty confronting. It was an emotional experience. The entrance is an example of how things were then; Blanke or Nie Blank, everything was separated according to skin colour. What a lengthy struggle it was to breakthrough this white power. Many have fought and given their lives but Nelson Mandela truly is almost a god for South-Africans. He actually worked together with the Government for years, even whilst in prison, to create the basis for a new constitution where everybody would be equal. One man, one vote! Marcel immediately bought the book Nelson Mandela, Long Walk to Freedom and could not put it down. He advises everybody to read this book.





After 2 days of J'burg we were off to explore the rest of South-Africa. First stop was the Lion Park, our first encounter with the South-African wildlife. You could cuddle young lions here. Again Lisette wanted to adopt them immediately. And we got to feed Giraffes; boy, do they have ugly long dark-grey tongues! After that we got to experience the cultures of South Africa. Lesedi village is a cultural village where you can see how each of the 11 different tribes live. We got to hear the stories about the Zulu, the people from Lesotho, the Xhosa (Nelson Mandela is one), Nbele and many others. Especially the traditional dances where impressive. Most interesting was the warrior dance by the Zulu, kicking their legs against their head as a sign of endurance. It was clear that Zulu are the most violent of them all, as Shaka Zulu has proven in the past.






Kruger Park
14-20 February

We spent the night in a modern B&B in Nelspruit before going to Kruger Park the next day. When we left early in the morning and stopped at a gas station to fuel, we noticed our car (a very ugly Ssangyong Kyron) was leaking diesel. We called the rental company and after a lot of negotiating we could pick up a replacement car at the airport; a gigantic Toyota Hilux double cab. Ideal for Kruger Park as this was a true 4x4, high enough to spot all the wildlife. This caused us to miss a whole morning in Kruger Park but in the end we were happy with this new car, but only for Kruger as our luggage was clearly visible in the back. After many days of phining back and forth, we negotiated a new car to be brought to us on the last day of Kruger. Anyways, off we went what was to be long hours and days in search for wildlife. Immediately at the entrance we spotted our first animals; hippos (the first of what was to many, many, many hippos). Soon after we saw elephants, impala's, zebra's, and also a rhino, 2 of the big 5 in 1 hour! But this was just the beginning and more was to come the following days.

This was the first safari for Marcel so he didn't know what to expect. For those that never did it, it comes down to driving around for hours and hours, at a pace of 20-30 km/hour, staring until your eyes go scew, and being totally excited once you see something, totally forgetting at once all the hours spent looking in vane.
All this staring turns you mad so you regularly think you found something, but then it often turns out to be a piece of wood or a rock. But boy they do look almost the same, as you can judge yourself from these pictures.

You have to be patient, perseverant, but if you then see what you are looking for it is so rewarding. We were lucky to see 4 of the big 5, three days in a row. We just didn't succeed to find a leopard. But man did we get unique shots of young lions, the king of the jungle crossing the road, rhinos right in front of us, hippos and waterbuffalo enjoying the water. It was just great. We even got to see some more rare animals like jackals and hyenas.


We must tell you about the crocs. Last time Lisette was in Kruger there were crocs everywhere and no hippos. This time: almost none. We figured out that the hippos ate all the crocs :-). Our encounter with our first croc was sort of pathetic. We crossed a small pool of water and saw in our rearview mirror something moving in this puddle. We reversed and the water moved even more, a little while later a bunch of turtles ran out of the water and towards our car, begging for food. Strange, because we were nowhere near where people come to feed them. All we had was a small bag of unsalted macademia nuts and we decided it was ok to feed them this. Then we spotted this poor animal approaching through the water, a tiny croc with big begging eyes. Our hearts broke. These poor animals were starving to death and were begging us for food. I think we are the first human beings seeing a croc eating macadamia's... the poor thing.

As it does happen that some Kruger animals get hunted (in oreer to keep the ecosystem in balance), the local shops offer game for BBQ-ing (“Braai”in SA). We had 2 Wildebeest (Gnoe in Dutch) braais, hmmm. Marcel has become a real braai master by now.


After Kruger we passed through the Blyde River Canyon towards the east coast. We must say that South-Africa does have an amazing countryside almost as beautiful as New Zealand. We did the whole lot: God's Window, Three Rondavels, The Pinnacle and Bourke's Luck Potholes. Especially impressive were the Bourke's Luck Potholes, deep circles in the canyon carved out by the Blyde river (Afrikaans for Happy river, they also have a sad river).


South Africa part 2

Hi everyone! This is probably the last posting of South Africa until after Tanzania. We leave to Tanzania tomorrow, March 9th and will most probably not have access to the internet until we get home on March 25th :-(((((. We still owe you our final trip in South Africa which is Eastern Cape and CapeTown (and of course Tanzania), so stay tuned!

We also want to take this opportunity to congratulate our friends Fernanda and Jos on the birth of their daughter: Julia! We're looking forward to seeing her when we get back!


Kwa-Zulu Natal
20-24 February

From Nelspruit to St. Lucia

We had much deliberation about our next destination as it was rainy in the Drakensberg area and would therefore not be able to enjoy the views. Our initial route was through the Drakensbergen, then drive to Cape Town via Freestate (Kimberly, Bloemfontein). But we decided to drive down through the west coast. First stop: St.Lucia Wetlands. The road towards St.Lucia was long and tedious, and although at first intrigued by the many zulu villages and "wildlife" (see photo) we passed along the way, even that got boring after a while. So boring that we missed a turn and ended up on a dirt road along Swaziland! Small detour which added an hour to our drive and probably ruined the car's suspension, but hey, we got to see a bit of Swaziland. Yet another country to add to our list (no stamp in our passports, but our cellphone proved we were there).



After Swaziland it was just a short trip to Amsterdam.. :-)

St.Lucia was nice, we stayed at a B&B run by a rebel that used to fight alongside Walter Sisulu in the battle against apartheid. After this era (and some time in jail) she then found her passion in preservation of the Wetlands, a.o. by closing the titanium mines. She met Nelson Mandela during this struggle.
St.Lucia is famous for its landscape and.. hippos.. yes even MORE hippos. Lisette was wondering if it was possible to eat them and solve world-hunger. They do make nice pictures though..



photo: ..... Lisette: " can you eat hippos?".....




St.Lucia also has a lovely beach at Cape Vidal where we could cool off as it was HOT HOT HOT!


Lisette was charmed by the zulu children and donated to a group that teaches them to maintain their traditions and making some money whilst doing that.







From St. Lucia to the Wild Coast

We drove down to the Wild Coast via the coastline, passing Durban along the way. We drove through Durban as quickly as we could, as it is not at all a nice city to be in. They where building the stadium for the World Cup 2010 (one of many), but we were wondering if they would be able to fix up the town in time as well.



The road through the Transkei and through Kwa-Zulu Natal (after Durban) was lively and there was lots to see along the way. Marcel summarised pieces from Nelson Mandela's book which gave an interesting insight on the South African people and what they've been through. We actually passed by the village he was born and the village he was raised and also passed the house he is currently living in (no photos). Word is Mandela is not well and they fear for his health. We hope he makes it through 2009.










10 years ago when Lisette travelled through SA, everyone was afraid to drive through what was formally known as the Transkei. They were even warned at the time to drive from Durban to East London (675 km) in one go, without stopping. They were stay on th main road and not to stop for ANYTHING as stopping would put you in danger of being robbed or worse.
Now everyone speaks full of praise about the Wild Coast and its people. It was a beautiful drive and we did NOT stay on the main road. We travelled the small roads and enyojed the spectacular scenery and met interesting people. Unfortunately the weather was not too great and we did not see much of the coast waters. We did pass some large towns along the way, which looked a bit threatening, as they were crouded with people and cars wiggeling around the streets like a mixed colony of ants ready for a meal :-).



Lisette unfortunately witnessed something traumatic which has kept her awake for a few nights: a horrible car
crash of which we at first only saw the wreck on the road. It had just happend. People were standing around the heavily damaged car, discussing. But what we did not expect was that a little way behind the car-wreck lay a girl in the grass beside the road, bleeding and obviously very dead. The sight of her was probably so horrible, people had decided not to stay around the body. She had obviously either been hit by the car or thrown out of it. It was all very shocking. By the way, the photo was not made purposely, but during photographing other scenes.


We stopped making photos during the rest of the trip through the Transkei as Lisette was not feeling too well after this.